Understanding Hyperpigmentation - A Pro’s Guide

For estheticians who want to treat pigment with purpose.

Hyperpigmentation is one of the most common concerns we see in the treatment room, yet one of the most misunderstood. And if you’re treating every dark spot the same way, you’re probably not getting the results you could be.

Let’s break down what hyperpigmentation really is, what causes it, and how to treat it with both strategy and science.

What Is Hyperpigmentation?

Hyperpigmentation is an umbrella term for darkened patches or spots on the skin caused by excess melanin production. It’s not a condition in itself, it’s a symptom of something deeper: inflammation, trauma, UV exposure, or hormonal changes.

Types of Hyperpigmentation Estheticians Should Know:

• Post-Inflammatory Hyperpigmentation (PIH)

  • Caused by acne, picking, heat, or irritation. These spots are usually flat and pink, brown, or grey, depending on skin tone.

  • Common in Fitz IV–VI, and one of the most frustrating for acne-prone clients.

• Sun-Induced Pigment (Lentigines/Freckles)

  • Caused by repeated UV exposure over time. Typically show up as small, defined spots, especially on the face, neck, chest, and hands.

• Freckles (Ephelides)

  • Genetically driven, but darken with the sun. These are normal and benign, but many clients confuse them with damage.

• Melasma

  • A chronic, hormonally influenced pigmentation disorder. Often mistaken for PIH or sun damage, but much deeper and harder to treat. We’ll dive into melasma more deeply in the next post, because it deserves its own protocol discussion.

Common Causes of Hyperpigmentation

• UV exposure (with or without sunburn)

• Inflammation (acne, eczema, injury, heat)

• Overuse of exfoliants or actives

• Improper post-treatment care

• Hormonal changes (melasma-related)

Often, pigment is worsened by a combination of these factors, not just one.

Key Ingredients to Look For

Estheticians need more than just a “brightening serum.” The goal is to regulate melanin production, calm inflammation, and support barrier repair - all at once

Ingredients	Why it works
Arbutin	Inhibits tyrosinase to prevent melanin overproduction
Vitamin C	Brightens, protects against free radicals, and supports collagen
Mushroom Extract	Calms inflammation and helps even tone
NAD+	Supports cell repair and reduces oxidative stress
Centella Asiatica	Soothes skin and reduces pigment-related inflammation
Squalane & Panthenol	Restore barrier function and improve tolerance to actives

Treatment Strategy: What Works for Pigmentation

✔️Gentle exfoliation (enzymes, lactic, mandelic)

✔️ Brightening serums (arbutin, vitamin C, mushroom)

✔️ Consistent home care and client education

✔️ Barrier support (especially post-procedure)

✔️ Daily SPF – no exceptions

Pigment doesn’t fade quickly. The best results come from layering treatments over time—with smart home care and strict sun protection.

Pre-Treatment is Non-Negotiable for Fitz 4–6

Before diving into chemical peels, microneedling, or any advanced resurfacing treatments, it’s critical to pre-treat higher Fitzpatrick skin types with pigment inhibitors.

This helps reduce the risk of post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH) and creates a more even, predictable outcome.

Look for ingredients like:

• Arbutin

• Vitamin C

• Azelaic acid (if tolerated)

• Licorice root extract

• Mushroom extract

• NAD+ (for inflammation support and cellular repair)

Pre-treatment should begin 2–4 weeks prior to any moderate or deep treatment for optimal results.

This is one of the most overlooked steps, and one of the most important, especially if you want to protect melanin-rich skin and earn long-term client trust.

Prevention: It Starts With SPF

If your client is doing everything right and still struggling with dark spots, start with the sunscreen.

• Non-tinted SPF works for most types of pigment (PIH, sun spots).

• Tinted SPF with iron oxides is critical for melasma and pigment-prone skin, especially in deeper Fitz types.

Why? Because visible light (not just UV) plays a role in pigment activation, especially with melasma and deeper skin tones.

Pro Insight

You can’t treat what you can’t identify. Always determine:

•What type of pigment you're dealing with

•Where it’s coming from (epidermal vs. dermal)

•What the client’s habits and triggers are

The more precise your approach, the better your outcomes, and the more trust you build as a pro.

What’s Next?

In our next post, we’ll dive into melasma - how to identify it, how to manage it, and why your approach needs to be completely different from typical pigment protocols.

Want to feel more confident treating all types of pigmentation? Let’s connect.

Follow me on Instagram @slateandserum for real-world education, skin science, and practical tools for estheticians and skincare pros. 

At Slate and Serum, we’re building a space where professionals can grow with confidence, integrity, and evidence-based knowledge without the fluff. 

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About the Author 

Karla Pelaez-Barrick is a licensed aesthetic professional, educator, and skincare innovator with over 20 years of experience in the health and beauty industry. Known for her expertise in advanced skin revision techniques, she is dedicated to helping fellow professionals elevate their practice through science-backed treatments and ongoing education. Her work bridges clinical insight with practical application, empowering estheticians to deliver results-driven care with confidence.